Replacing old, leaky, or outdated Basin Taps (also known as faucets) is a common and rewarding DIY project. With the right tools and a methodical approach, you can upgrade your bathroom or kitchen sink efficiently.
Gather everything before you start to avoid mid-project trips to the hardware store.
Adjustable Wrenches (or basin wrenches) - Crucial for nuts in tight spaces.
Channel-Lock Pliers
Phillips and Flat-Head Screwdrivers
Putty Knife
Bucket or Towels - for water spills.
Flashlight - for better visibility under the sink.
Spirit Level (for some tap types)
New Basin Tap - Ensure it fits your basin's pre-drilled holes (e.g., 4-inch center-set, single-hole, or widespread).
Plumber's Putty or a Silicone Sealant
Flexible Hose Tap Connectors (highly recommended; often come with new taps)
Thread Seal Tape (PTFE Tape)
New Water Supply Lines (if not using the provided hoses)
Cleaning Cloth
TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY! This is the most critical step.
Locate the isolation valves under the sink and turn them clockwise until they stop.
If there are no isolation valves, you must turn off the main water supply to your house.
RELEASE PRESSURE: Turn on the old taps upstairs and downstairs to drain any remaining water from the pipes.
WORK CAREFULLY: The area under the sink is cramped. Mind your head and back.
Disconnect Water Supply: Place your bucket or towels under the pipes. Use your wrench to loosen the nuts connecting the old tap's tailpieces to the water supply lines. If they are corroded, a little penetrating oil can help.
Remove the Mounting Nut: Look for a large nut holding the tap to the basin. This is often where a basin wrench becomes indispensable due to the lack of space. Loosen and remove this nut.
Lift the Old Tap: If the tap is stuck due to old sealant, gently use a putty knife to break the seal. Lift the old tap straight up and out of the basin hole(s).
Clean the Surface: Thoroughly clean the area around the hole(s) on the basin to remove any old putty, sealant, or debris. A clean surface is vital for a watertight seal.
Read the Instructions: Always consult the manufacturer's guide that came with your new tap.
Apply Sealant:
If your tap has a deck plate or base, apply a continuous, pea-sized rope of plumber's putty or a bead of silicone sealant underneath it. Do not use putty on porous surfaces like stone; use silicone only.
Insert the Tap: Carefully insert the tap's tailpieces through the designated holes in the basin. Ensure it is sitting straight and aligned correctly. Use a spirit level if necessary.
Secure the Tap from Below: From under the sink, slide the provided rubber gasket and metal washer onto the tailpieces (if applicable). Then, thread and hand-tighten the mounting nut. Use your wrench to give it another quarter to half turn—do not overtighten, as you could crack the ceramic basin.
Attach Flexible Hoses: If your new tap didn't come with pre-attached hoses, connect the flexible supply hoses to the tap's tailpieces. Hand-tighten first, then use a wrench for a final gentle tighten.
Use PTFE Tape: Wrap thread seal tape (PTFE tape) clockwise around the threads of the shut-off valves 4-5 times. This ensures a watertight connection.
Connect to Water Lines: Connect the other ends of the flexible hoses to the corresponding hot and cold water shut-off valves. Hand-tighten, then secure with a wrench. Again, avoid over-tightening.
Turn Water Back On: Slowly turn the isolation valves or main water supply back on.
Check for Leaks: Before using the tap, carefully inspect every connection point you just made for any signs of dripping. Have a towel ready.
Test the Tap: Turn the new tap on and off, running both hot and cold water. Check again for leaks under the sink.
Seal the Edges (if needed): If you used plumber's putty, you might see some squeeze out. You can neatly clean this up after 24 hours once it has set.
The Basin Wrench is Your Best Friend: This inexpensive tool is specifically designed for reaching the awkward mounting nuts under sinks. It will save you immense time and frustration.
Take Photos: Before disconnecting anything, take pictures of the existing setup with your phone. This is a great reference if you get confused during reassembly.
Go Flexible: Rigid copper supply lines are difficult to work with. Flexible braided stainless-steel hoses are forgiving, easier to install, and often come with new taps.
If You Meet Resistance: If a nut is badly corroded and won't budge, apply a penetrating oil like WD-40, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, and try again.
While this is a manageable DIY task, call a professional if:
You cannot turn off the water supply.
The isolation valves are corroded and won't close properly or start leaking.
You discover significant corrosion or damage to the pipes.
You have a non-standard setup or are uncomfortable with any step.
Changing your basin taps is a fantastic way to refresh the look of your bathroom or kitchen without a major renovation. By following these steps, preparing properly, and working carefully, you can achieve a professional-looking result and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done.
