Changing a kitchen faucet is one of the most effective upgrades you can do to improve daily usability, reduce leaks, and refresh the look of your sink area. With the right tools and a careful installation process, most homeowners can replace an old faucet in a single afternoon. This guide walks you through preparation, removal, installation, and post-checks, with clear details to help you avoid common mistakes.
A smooth replacement begins with knowing what you have. Look at your sink or countertop and confirm the mounting style. Many kitchens use either a single-hole setup or a multi-hole deck layout. If your sink has extra holes that will not be used by the new faucet, you may need a deck plate to cover them cleanly.
Also confirm your water supply line connections. Most modern shutoff valves connect to braided supply hoses, but thread sizes and connection types can vary. If the shutoff valves are old or stiff, plan to replace them or at least test that they fully shut off before you remove anything.
You do not need a full toolbox, but a few items make the job safer and faster.
Adjustable wrench and/or basin wrench for tight spaces under the sink
Bucket, towels, and a sponge for residual water
Screwdriver set
Plumber’s putty or silicone sealant depending on faucet requirements
PTFE thread tape for threaded connections when appropriate
New braided supply hoses if the existing ones are worn or too short
Flashlight or headlamp for under-sink visibility
If your sink cabinet is cramped, a basin wrench is usually the tool that saves the most time because it is designed for faucet nuts in narrow spaces.
Turn off the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink by rotating them clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet handle(s) to relieve pressure and drain any remaining water in the lines. Place a bucket under the valves and supply connections, because a small amount of water typically drips when lines are disconnected.
If you do not have shutoff valves under the sink or they do not close fully, you may need to shut off water at the main supply before proceeding.
Under the sink, locate the hot and cold supply hoses connected to the shutoff valves. Use a wrench to loosen the nuts and disconnect both lines. Expect some residual water in the hoses.
Next, remove the faucet mounting hardware. Most faucets are secured by a mounting nut and bracket system beneath the sink. Loosen and remove these parts, then lift the faucet body straight up from above. If the faucet is stuck due to old sealant or mineral buildup, gently work it loose from the top using slow pressure, not sudden force that could crack a sink or scratch a countertop.
Once removed, clean the mounting surface thoroughly. Scrape away old putty or silicone, wipe the area, and make sure the faucet base will sit flat and seal evenly.
Before placing the new faucet, review how it seals to the sink or countertop. Some faucet bases require plumber’s putty, while others recommend silicone or include a gasket. Follow the faucet’s sealing method so water does not seep under the base and cause cabinet damage over time.
If the faucet includes separate components such as an escutcheon plate, side sprayer, soap dispenser, or pull-out hose weight, lay everything out and confirm the assembly order. Doing this on the counter is much easier than figuring it out under the sink.
Insert the faucet lines and shank through the mounting hole(s) from above. Align the faucet so it sits straight relative to the sink bowl and backsplash. Under the sink, attach the mounting bracket and nut. Tighten gradually, checking alignment from above as you go. Over-tightening can warp a thin stainless sink, while under-tightening may cause wobble or leaks around the base.
If your faucet is a pull-down or pull-out type, attach the hose according to the design and ensure the hose path has a smooth curve. Install the hose weight at the recommended position so the sprayer retracts reliably.
Connect the hot and cold supply lines to the shutoff valves. Tighten with a wrench until snug, then stop. Many leaks happen because fittings are either not tight enough or are over-tightened and damaged. If you are using threaded adapters or threaded joints where tape is allowed, apply PTFE tape neatly in the direction of the threads. Do not add tape to compression-style fittings unless the manufacturer specifically recommends it.
Use the table below to avoid the most common connection mix-ups.
| Connection Point | What to Check | Common Mistake to Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Shutoff valve to hose | Correct thread size and straight alignment | Cross-threading the nut |
| Hot and cold routing | Hot line to hot valve, cold line to cold valve | Swapping hot and cold |
| Faucet hose connections | Fully seated coupling and secure clip if included | Loose quick-connect fitting |
| Pull-out hose path | No kinks, smooth movement, proper weight position | Hose rubbing cabinet edge |
Turn the shutoff valves back on slowly. Start with cold, then hot. Watch every connection under the sink while the system pressurizes. If you see moisture forming, turn off the valve and tighten the fitting slightly, then re-check.
If your faucet has an aerator, remove it before flushing. Run water for one to two minutes on both hot and cold to clear debris that can clog the cartridge or aerator during installation. Reinstall the aerator after flushing.
For pull-down models, run the sprayer and switch between modes to confirm stable flow and proper retraction.
A faucet replacement can look perfect on day one and still fail weeks later if small details are missed. These are the issues worth double-checking.
Not cleaning the mounting surface, which prevents a flat seal and causes slow seepage under the base
Using the wrong sealant method, leading to water intrusion and cabinet swelling
Over-tightening supply nuts, which can deform washers and create intermittent leaks
Leaving the hose weight off or placing it incorrectly, which causes poor sprayer retraction
Forgetting to flush lines, which can trap debris in the valve and reduce flow
If you are already changing the faucet, it is a good time to choose a design that improves function, not just appearance. Many homeowners prefer pull-down sprayers for larger sinks and busy cooking routines. If you frequently fill tall pots, a high-arc spout can add clearance. If water quality is a concern, consider a faucet setup that pairs well with filtration accessories and gives you reliable, consistent flow.
For homeowners and project buyers who want a clean modern look and dependable daily performance, you can also explore kitchen faucet options from LODECE at their official site: LODECE kitchen faucets on lodecefaucet.com. Their range can support different sink layouts and style preferences, making it easier to match a replacement faucet to your kitchen design goals.
Faucet sits straight and does not wobble
No water under the faucet base after wiping the area dry
No drips at shutoff valves or hose connections after several minutes
Hot and cold directions are correct at the handle
Sprayer retracts smoothly and does not snag
Once everything passes, dry the cabinet floor completely and check again after a few hours of normal use. A careful final inspection helps you catch small seepage early, before it turns into hidden water damage.
